Continuing in this week's restaurant vein, one of the more enjoyable meals I've had recently was, somewhat to my surprise, at Wild Salmon in Manhattan. I've been trying to figure out why a restaurant entirely dedicated to salmon seems like such an oddball concept, especially when you can't walk down the street in Manhattan right now without tripping over (so to speak) a restaurant entirely dedicated to beef. But, regardless of that—and regardless of the fact that WS is owned by the controversial Jeffrey Chodorow, and regardless of the additional fact that the restaurant occupies a cavernous, formerly-restaurant-killing space over on Third Ave. that was once home to an insurance company—Wild Salmon is mighty darn good. (I know I've just lost cred with my foodie friends, who love to hate anything Mr. Chodorow touches, but whatever.)

For me the restaurant's success is due to the quality of the fish itself (terrific) as well as the quality of the Northwest-centric wine list (also very good). My charming wife, who once spent a college summer canning salmon in Alaska and knows her cohos from her kings, similarly proclaimed the fish terrific. Since she's not one to issue proclamations without reason, unlike me, WS deserves all the more credit. That said, the restaurant isn't exactly hurt by the presence of an impressively talented chef, Charles Ramseyer, who most recently cooked at Ray's Boathouse in Seattle.