Yep, a week full of tasting and what do I get? One wine under $20 that I actually liked. I'm leaving out a lengthy Australian wine dinner at Dressler that I hope to write up a bit more fully on Monday, but still—one wine? What is the world coming to?

In any case, this is it:

2006 Rapitalà Piano Maltese Bianco ($11) This is a terrific affordable white, crisp enough to have that light prickle on the tip of the tongue when you first sip it, then developing zesty citrus flavors and a nice, light, seashell-minerality. It's from Sicily, a fifty-fifty blend of the local varieties Grillo and Catarratto. Summer's waning—start grilling those shrimp now, and pour some of this to go with them. Soon the days will be dark, and you'll be stuck eating roast boar and slurping down 17% alcohol Zinfandels until Spring rolls around.