A pair of tasty whites, one dry and one off-dry, one Californian and one Washingtonian, one a Sauvignon Blanc and one a Riesling. Who says we don't offer variety here?

2006 Hanna Russian River Valley Slusser Road Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc ($17) Terrific California Sauvignon Blanc. Really. Hanna's SB is usually a good value, but winemaker Jeff Hinchliffe seems to have outdone himself in this vintage: the nose is just lovely, with citrus hard-candy and herb notes; on the palate the fruit is svelte and tangy, mostly melon but with a lively lime-citrus overlay.

2006 Dunham Cellars Four Legged White ($19) The name refers to the very charming dog on the label, for what that's worth. This is a blend of 87% Riesling and 13% Chardonnay from the Columbia Valley in Washington, the aroma all apple and spice and a touch of petrol, the off-dry flavors also leaning towards apple hard candies with a light bitter note of baking spices. Hard to imagine a better pour for Thai or Vietnamese food, I'd say.