Another day, another tasting. The fun never stops around these parts. In any case, here are a couple of new wines from Pascal Jolivet, the Loire producer, that I found particularly impressive (i.e. I loved them both). Both are made with natural yeasts, no sulfur dioxide before fermentation, organic fruit, no filtration, and a year of aging on the lees.

The first, the 2006 Pascal Jolivet Sancerre Blanc Sauvage ($45), from chalky soils, had a crisp minerality and flavors of grapefruit and grapefruit rind, with an earthy density lying underneath everything that gave it a kind of increasing presence in the mouth as I tasted it.

The second, the 2006 Pascal Jolivet Pouilly Fumé Indigene ($45), grown on silex soil (flinty rocky soil) even more compelling, I thought—the aroma a kind of smoky lemon-lime scent, the palate creamy and succulent even while it had fingersnap-crisp citrus and green apple flavors, ending on a savory note. According to Jolivet, the Indigene took a full four months to get through fermentation, a pretty bizarre situation but one that certainly paid off in the end.