So what if it's 95˚ in NYC, I say pull out a big ol' Sicilian red. Or, actually, a nicely structured and not-at-all-too-jammy Sicilian red, as well as a tasty Argentine white. To wit:

2007 Trivento Select Torrontes ($12) I'm sort of perplexed by this white, since neither the winery's website nor the importer's seems to have any info on it, but nevertheless it's in the market, so what the hey. Nice classic floral aroma, juicy melon-citrus fruit—it's not as over-the-top (nor quite as delicious) as Susana Balbo's slightly more expensive bottling, but it's a very appealing white for a fair price.

2006 Feudo Principi di Butera Nero d'Avola ($13) I wrote about this a few months ago, but had the opportunity to re-taste it with the winemaker, Franco Giacosa, a couple of days ago, and I'm still convinced it's a terrific value. The aroma is bright red cherry with a bit of tarry floral action, the flavor juicy and spicy but neither overextracted nor overripe. It's aged in big Slavonian oak botti—"no barriques, no French oak," says Mr. Giacosa. Kudos to him on that choice.