• I’ve been headed towards a big Russian River Valley tasting for this blog for a month or so now, but in a sort of preview, here’s a knockout RRV Zin from Eric Ross.

  • 2004 Eric Ross Old Vine Zinfandel Feeney Ranch
    ($30) Scents of kirsch, herbs and smoked black plum (not that I have ever met anyone in all my years of food and wine writing who’s smoked plums, but you get the idea); dense, sweet, utterly luscious plum-cherry compote flavors that just last and last. You have to be willing to take the consequences of the 15.8% alcohol level to enjoy this, but don't worry. You’ll be so enraptured, you won’t notice that you just fell over.

(As a side note, this wine was just great with Steve Raichlen’s recipe for grilled four pepper steak au poivre, which we recently tested for—and which will appear in—our big June grilling issue. And as another side note, the easiest to find this wine is likely to be by calling Eric Ross directly—the tasting room number is 707-939-8525.)