Top 10 Grower Champagnes

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The biggest change over the past decade has been the rise of “grower” Champagnes from unknown to ultra-popular. Essentially the opposite of the wines made by the big houses, these come from individual, family-owned vineyards, often farmers turned winemakers who used to sell their grapes to the grandes marques. Grower Champagnes aren’t necessarily better or worse than those from the big houses, but they do tend to reflect vineyard character more directly. (They can be identified by the letters RM on the label, which stand for récoltant-manipulant, meaning  a producer who grows grapes and makes wine only from his or her own vines.) These 10 winners from our tastings at F&W are more than worth seeking out.—Ray Isle

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Doyard Cuvée Vendémiaire Premier Cru Brut

After his vineyards were destroyed during WWI, Maurice Doyard replanted and rebuilt; today, his great-grandson Charles makes aromatic, spicy wines like this one.  $47.

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Chartogne-Taillet Cuvée Sainte Anne

One of the “larger” grower Champagne producers, at about 6,500 cases per year, Chartogne-Taillet has been on an upswing ever since Alexandre Chartogne took over in 2007. This precise, gingery bottling exemplifies his style.  Buy: $43 at wine.com.

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J. Lassalle Cuvée Préférence Premier Cru Brut

J. Lassalle Cuvée Préférence Premier Cru Brut

This lime-scented cuvée is the work of chef de cave Angéline Templier, whose grandfather founded this estate in 1942.  $48.

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Savart L'Ouverture

Frédéric Savart signed a professional soccer contract before he was lured back to the family business. Soccer’s loss is our gain: This precisely focused cuvée was one of the very best  in our blind tastings.  $50.

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Geoffroy Expression Brut

Warm, toasty pear notes are the core of this lush cuvée, made by a family that has been growing grapes since the 1600s.  Buy: $56 at wine.com.

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Pehu-Simonet Face Nord

This Pinot Noir–driven bottling comes from north-facing vineyards (hence the name). Imagine hints of ripe strawberry fruit and fine, lemony acidity, and you’ll have a good sense of its style.  $54.

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Jacques Lassaigne Les Vignes De Montgueux

Courtesy of Jenny & Francois

Most of Lassaigne’s vines are right across the street from his house in Montgueux,  a tiny town in the very north of the Aube region. Working in a “natural” mode—little sulfur; no industrial yeasts or pesticides; lots of hands-on work—he produces chiseled, delicate wines like this one.  $58.

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Benoît Lahaye Brut Essentiel

Pale gold in hue, with plenty of red apple and brioche notes, this seductive cuvée comes from a small estate in the town of Bouzy (famed for the quality of its Pinot Noir). Lahaye is also one of the few local growers who still  works his vineyards with a horse.  $67.

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Egly-Ouriet Brut Tradition Grand Cru

One of the first growers to gain US attention, Ambonnay-based Egly-Ouriet makes powerful, savory wines that benefit from extended time aging on their lees (the spent yeasts from fermentation). They’re pricey,  but they’re worth it.  Buy: $80 at wine.com.

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Georges Laval Cumières Brut Nature

Georges Laval Cumieres Premier Brut Nature

Vincent Laval grows grapes the same way his father did, and  his father before that, and… well, more or less since the family started doing it in 1694. No pesticides, no chemical fertilizers, lots of handwork in the vines: The result is this lemon peel–citrusy, beautifully high-toned wine. $90.

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Top 10 Grower Champagnes

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Doyard Cuvée Vendémiaire Premier Cru Brut