Keeping a simple lunch counter stocked with sandwiches, owner Daniel Whittaker recently added a restored heart pine wood table to the center of his pharmacy café, which now seats 24 in a communal space. The chef, Patrick Cowden, creates specialties like braised duck with pickled vegetables on a crusty baguette, fried, local shrimp rolls, griddled halloumi and at least twenty jars and bottles of house-made hot sauces and relishes that rival the cure-all strength in the pill bottles lining the walls (the space is, indeed, a working pharmacy, as well). Desserts and drinks take the soda fountain concept to the next level, using small-batch local ingredients—Crude Bitters syrups, Lumpy’s ice cream—that go beyond the malted milkshake and into rich territory. Try the Sweet & Shine: sweet potato ice cream, moonshine syrup, candied pecans, white chocolate, and orange-fig sauce.

By Food & Wine

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