In Praise of Parsnips, the Humble Heroes of the Vegetable Drawer
I’m rooting for the parsnip, and you should, too.
Brown Butter Parsnip Puree
At the Brooklyn brasserie Francie, John Winterman and Christopher Cipollone offer this cozy side dish of pureed parsnips. To make it, naturally sweet parsnips are simmered in bay leaf–infused cream until very tender, then pureed in a blender until they take on a silky, mashed potato–like texture. A garnish of diced green apples adds tart, mouthwatering acidity and refreshing crunch, while a generous drizzle of brown butter lends a pleasant richness. At Francie, the parsnip puree is served alongside duck, but it would also be a terrific partner for roast turkey or chicken.
Carrot Cake Marmalade with Yogurt and Fresh Fruit
At Molly’s Rise and Shine in New Orleans, diners rave about the yogurt bowl topped with sunny roasted carrot marmalade. This take on chef Mason Hereford’s marmalade gets big flavor from stewing carrots and apple with cinnamon, cardamom, and star anise for a warmly spiced result.
Oto (Mashed Yam Patties)
Puna yam (not to be confused with sweet potato) is the star of this Ghanaian dish often served on wedding days. Puna yams are starchy; it’s essential to avoid overcooking them in order to make shaping the patties easier. Their unique texture and flavor make them worth seeking out for this recipe; see sourcing info below.
Grilled Verona Radicchio with Bottarga and Wild Apple Molasses
A drizzle of tart apple molasses tames this elegant starter of charred radicchio stuffed with butter and bottarga. Radicchio rosso di Treviso can be substituted for Verona, but keep in mind that the head and leaves are less compact.
Puntarelle-Citrus Salad with Roasted Beets
Puntarelle stays bright and crisp in this salad, while beets bring a tender, earthy sweetness. Puntarelle is a specialty buy—check your local farmers market, or substitute another bitter chicory.
