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  3. Where to Eat and Drink in Peckham, London

Where to Eat and Drink in Peckham, London

By Food & Wine Updated June 17, 2016
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Rosie's Deli Cafe
Credit: Courtesy of Rosie's
For a long time, Peckham was notorious among Londoners primarily for its gang violence, bad schools and decaying housing estates. Until recently, this unloved part of South East London didn't even have the urban glamour of other rough neighborhoods like Brixton or Hackney; there was just no reason to go there. Then, about ten years ago, artists who had been pushed out of East London by rising rents began colonizing the neighborhood's old industrial buildings, and soon people with money began moving in. The usual story really, but in Peckham it happened so fast. Seemingly overnight, SE15 went from being a postcode I wouldn't even consider moving to, to one I couldn't afford. Peckham has certain advantages over other gentrifying suburbs. It was developed in the 19th century for the newly affluent middle classes and it still has lots of good quality (albeit increasingly expensive) Victorian houses. There's large park in the form of Peckham Rye. And it's well-connected: from the beautiful if dilapidated Italianate station at Peckham Rye, you can catch trains to all over London. The schools are improving with independently run public schools getting outstanding results. The best thing about Peckham, though, is the food. I live in nearby Lewisham, which is still stubbornly resisting gentrification and some of its trappings, like good restaurants. So whenever we want to eat or drink well, we go to Peckham. Despite all the great restaurants, even on a Friday night, it's not that busy. The bridge and tunnel crowd haven't discovered the neighborhood yet—unless you count my wife and me. Here are a few places to try. —Henry Jeffreys
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Miss Tapas

Miss Tapas
Credit: Courtesy of Miss Tapas

When you leave the train station en route to Miss Tapas, you might be forgiven for wondering when exactly the gentrification is going to arrive. The streets around it are a riot of places offering hair weaves, halal meat, and exotic fruit and veg. Nestled amongst all this, though, is this tiny place. It offers excellent tapas and a good, all-Spanish wine list that includes some unusual sherries. The owners run a business importing Spanish produce, so you can be assured that everything—drinks and food—is of the highest quality. misstapas.com, 46 Choumert Rd., London SE15

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The Nines

The Nines
Credit: Courtesy of The Nines

The Nines is a fun cocktail bar in the Bussey Building. This building is the epicenter of the new Peckham, an in fact it serves as a pretty good metaphor for the whole area. The former warehouse now houses a peculiar mixture of bars, studio spaces, and African evangelical churches. You access the Nines via an alley—it's in a car park behind the building. The decor is basic in the extreme, but the drinks are good, strong and relatively inexpensive. theninespeckham.co.uk, Unit 9A Copeland Park, 133 Copeland Road, London SE15 3SN

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Brick Brewery

Brick Brewery
Credit: © Brick Brewery

Just down the road from the station is this craft brewery. The taproom is open at night, so you can sample the beer alongside salty snacks, like the cured meats they offer—ingeniously designed to get you to drink more. What could be more Peckham than having cured meats at a micro brewery? brickbrewery.co.uk, Blenheim Grove, London SE15 4QL

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Peckham Bazaar

Peckham Bazaar
Credit: © Celia Topping

You'll walk down Consort Road thinking, surely nothing could be down here, and then, just when you're about to give up, there is Peckham Bazaar. The food is broadly Turkish and Georgian but anything at the intersection of Europe and Asia goes. Char-grilled meats are the thing, but what really lifts it above standard Levantine fare is the bold seasoning and the imaginative use of seasonal vegetables. The wine list, mainly Greek and Croat, is brilliantly chosen. Booking in advance is essential for what is in my opinion not just one of the best restaurants in Peckham but in all of London. peckhambazaar.com,119 Consort Rd, London SE15 3RU

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Peckham Refreshment Rooms

Peckham Refreshment Rooms
Credit: © Oskar Proctor

Located opposite a couple of Afro-Caribbean hairdressers, the street outside gets lively in the summer with Peckham, old and new, mingling together. Inside it can be very noisy, but it's worth it for good simple food, steaks, terrines, and charcuterie, with a short, quality wine list and craft beers (everywhere in Peckham sells craft beers). Also handy for breakfasts and coffee, this is the perfect neighborhood stalwart. peckhamrefreshment.com,12-16 Blenheim Grove, London SE15 4QL

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The Begging Bowl

The Begging Bowl
Credit: © Chris Stevens

Oddly for a city as diverse as London, it's really hard to find good Thai food here. The Begging Bowl offers bold, fresh flavors, with unusual things such as a duck offal salad (much nicer than it sounds). Peckham these days can be a bit us and them, so it's nice to see that the Begging Bowl is popular with a broad cross-section of the community. It's been open since 2012 and already feels like an institution. thebeggingbowl.co.uk,168 Bellenden Rd., London, Peckham SE15 4BW

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Pedler

Pedler
Credit: © Media Wisdom

Restaurant critics are now regularly making the journey down to SE15 to try the latest places. Pedler, which is right near Peckham Rye, is just the kind of place that I wish someone would open in Lewisham. The food is what used to be called eclectic—think British with Italian, Spanish, and French influences, and Eastern flourishes. Like lemon sole served with ginger and Sriracha butter. They also take their gin-based cocktails very seriously. pedlerpeckhamrye.com, 8 Peckham Rye, Peckham, London SE15 4JR

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Il Giardino

Il Giardino
Credit: Courtesy of il Giardino

This Sardinian restaurant must have seemed like an emissary from another world when it opened in 1987. Now run by a Peruvian family, it's the sort of old-fashioned trattoria that you dream of but so rarely find. The food is basic but lovingly prepared, with particularly good pizzas, and the atmosphere is never less than joyful. ilgiardinopeckham.co.uk, 7 Blenheim Grove, London SE15 4QS

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Ganapati

Ganapati
Credit: © Ganapati Restaurant

Most Indian restaurants in Britain are run by Bangladeshis. Ganapati is a little different. It serves authentic Southern Indian food in a relaxed cafe atmosphere. Again unlike most British Indian restaurants, the owners change the menu regularly to reflect what is in season. Their dosas and parathas are particularly fine. It has a nice terrace for outside dining in the summer. ganapatirestaurant.com, 38 Holly Grove, London SE15 5DF

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Artusi

L'Artusi
Credit: Courtesy of Artusi

Bellenden Road is a hotbed of gentrification, bustling with with upmarket delicatessens, restaurants and an organic butcher, so it's no surprise to find a voguish Italian place such as Artusi. They offer charcuterie, offal, cheeses and excellent homemade pasta. The menu changes daily but everything on it is always mouth-watering. The wine list can veer towards the funky end of 'natural' wines, so if you're a wine conservative like me, ask before you order. artusi.co.uk, 161 Bellenden Rd., London SE15 4DH

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Rosie's Deli

Rosie's Deli Cafe
Credit: Courtesy of Rosie's

Rosie's Deli in nearby Brixton has been offering excellent food to South Londoners since 2003. The owner, food writer Rosie Lovell, has just opened this much bigger branch near the Rye. It's a great place to have breakfast, and it has very good coffee. While you're there, you must try her signature dish of scrambled eggs with chilli jam. rosiesdelicafe.com, 28 Peckham Rye, London SE15 4JR

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    1 of 11 Miss Tapas
    2 of 11 The Nines
    3 of 11 Brick Brewery
    4 of 11 Peckham Bazaar
    5 of 11 Peckham Refreshment Rooms
    6 of 11 The Begging Bowl
    7 of 11 Pedler
    8 of 11 Il Giardino
    9 of 11 Ganapati
    10 of 11 Artusi
    11 of 11 Rosie's Deli

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