Like an insecure bride trying to pick out the plainest bridesmaid's dress, I've been wanting to find the most unassuming roast chicken to showcase (i.e., test) the dozens of new barbecue sauces that our new ICE intern, Kate, and I have found. I headed straight to to look up what the various barbecue spots in F&W's delivery zone had to offer. "Honey roasted." No. "Bar-B-Que basted." No. "Tennessee Whiskey Beer Can Style Chicken." Most definitely NO. Instead, I chose the plain and simple sounding "whole chicken" from Texas Chicken & Grill. (I especially liked the first customer comment: "This is good, cheap eats. It's authentic and no-frills.")

Unfortunately—for the barbecue-sauce tasting, anyway—the chicken, in its pure and utter simplicity, was an absolute knockout: skin addictively crispy, meat delectably moist and flavorful with only just a hint of salt. There ended up being a few knockout sauces, too, but most were ho-hum. The biggest discovery was clearly the chicken, which disappeared at an astonishingly fast rate. I even caught one not-to-be-named editor just grabbing pieces of chicken without trying any of the sauces—and I'm sure there were several more.