How Nashville's Philip Krajeck Makes the Perfect Bite at Folk
We'll be eating spring onion-flecked lamb meatballs all season, thank you very much.
When Philip Krajeck describes the menu at his restaurant Folk, newly opened in Nashville, he categorizes it as “food I’d want to eat myself.” Of course, it’s more than that. Music City diners are smitten with Krajeck’s deceptively simple, hyper-thoughtful, seasonally attuned food philosophy—his Germantown restaurant, Rolf and Daughters, known for bringing global techniques to Southern ingredients, opened in 2012 and is still full every night.
At Folk, “neo-Neopolitan” oven-fired pizzas made with fresh, stone-milled whole-wheat flour (another of Krajeck’s passions) may take center stage, but don’t call it a pizzeria. “It’s not just a pizza restaurant,” he says. “We’re going to have a really strong vegetable section. We’re doing cured meats. We’re doing seafood.” The food might seem simple, Krajeck says, with each dish featuring just a few components—but the flavor will be massive: “It’s going to be classic.”
See below how Krajeck makes lamb meatballs served with English peas and topped with a bright bagnet vert. One the side, he serves a whole fennel salad topped withe ribbons of ricotta.
1. More than "meats" the eye.
Every part of the lamb goes into these spring onion–flecked meatballs, which sit in a sauce made from roasted lamb bone stock. They’re topped with an earthy bagnet vert (recipe at top right) and served with English peas. Dandelion greens offer a balancing bitterness.
2. What they're pouring.
Nicolas Carmarans Maximus Aveyron Fer Servadou is a vibrant natural wine made of Fer Servadou grapes unique to southwest France. The carbonic macerated red offers smoke and cranberry on the nose with a fresh, red-berry palate and a hint of spice.
3. A root-to-frond salad.
For this crunchy whole-fennel salad, shaved fennel bulb dressed in lemon and olive oil sits atop marinated Castelvetrano olives and fennel conserva and is scattered with delicate fennel fronds. Long ribbons of ricotta salata cover the entire plate.
MAKES: ABOUT 2 CUPS
In a sauté pan, heat 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil over medium-high. Add 1 slice of crustless day-old sourdough bread and toast until golden brown on both sides; let cool. Process bread, 1 trimmed green garlic head, 1 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, 1/2 cup watercress, 1/2 cup nasturtium leaves, 1/2 cup blanched English peas, 2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar, and 2 Tbsp. water in a food processor until it forms a bright green paste. With processor running, pour 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil in a slow, thin stream through chute until completely incorporated. Add 1/8 tsp. fish sauce and salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.
823 Meridian St; goodasfolk.com