I'm glad the no-white-after-Labor-Day fashion dictum has largely gone out the window. But I still stick to my own corollary rule, which is No Pasta Carbonara between Memorial Day and Labor Day. To celebrate the return of carbonara season, I had a gigantic bowl of it at I Sodi, an adorable little Italian restaurant in the West Village (since I'm going with the fashion theme, I'll note that it's co-owned by a former Calvin Klein executive, Rita Sodi). I didn’t know how good their spaghetti carbonara was before, but now I’m addicted. It’s super-cheesy and eggy, with chunks of crisp guanciale (pork jowls) and well-spiced with nutmeg to cut the richness a little. And maybe it will inspire more great versions in the city. I understand that chef Nick Anderer is hard at work creating an awesome carbonara for the menu at Danny Meyer's upcoming Roman restaurant Maialino (in NYC’s Gramercy Park Hotel); if he's doing any research on it, let's hope he checks out the one at I Sodi.

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