Paris Neighborhood Guide: 6th and 7th Arrondissements
To mark the new edition of her classic Food Lover's Guide to Paris, Patricia Wells gives writer Jane Sigal the ideal itinerary for a food-filled day in the French capital.
Many people are drawn to the Left Bank by a nostalgia for its bohemian past, but the area also offers new reasons to visit: an incredible cheese shop, a cream puff boutique and a clean, green park makeover on the Seine.
La Pâtisserie des Rêves Pastry genius Philippe Conticini's hazelnut cream-filled Paris-Brest is arguably Paris's best. But it's his brioche that fascinates Wells. "It looks like it's gone through a little swirlmachine," she says. lapatisseriedesreves.com
La Grande Épicerie Department store Le Bon Marché's hugely renovated food halls sell 10,000-plus delicacies. New additions include a see-through meat locker where butchers break down whole animals and a 6,000-square-foot wine shop that stocks 3,000 labels. lagrandeepicerie.com
Galerie La Cornue The French range maker's gorgeous new showroom is filled with its giant stoves (Wells owns three, including Julia Child's from the 1960s), plus more affordable gadgets like an elegant rosewood strip with hooks for hanging small kitchen tools. lacornue.com
Fromagerie Griffon This sleek shop displays cheeses on pedestals under glass cloches. The extra-tangy chèvres are terrific in Wells's recipe for Herb-Marinated Goat Cheese in a Jar. fromagerie-griffon.com
Les Berges A sunken highway along the Seine was recently converted into this spiffy park with floating gardens, climbing walls and cabins to reserve—free—for a tête-à-tête. A shipping-container food court sells pork confit sandwiches from Omnivore Rives and other snacks. lesberges.paris.fr
La Maison du Chou The super-fresh cream puffs are filled to order with coffee, chocolate or plain (fromage blanc-based) cream. 7 Place de Furstenberg
Le Tourette Olivier Mourin puts a French spin on Spanish tapas at this perfectly intact 1920s bistro, where the chalkboard menu lists cava but also Saint-Tropez rosé. 70 rue de Grenelle
Es Es (German for "id") epitomizes the latest Paris restaurant trends. Chef Takayuki Honjo is young and foreign-born and has trained with Europe's top cooks. Plus, the space is small, with only 18 seats, and minimalist, with an excavated-stone-wall design. Exceptional dish: guinea hen in a spectacular hazelnut cream. 91 rue de Grenelle
Author and journalist Jane Sigal, F&W's Paris correspondent, is writing a cookbook on the new French bistro for Rizzoli.