A New Food Must-Read
Michael Steinberger's Au Revoir to All ThatFor anyone who cares about food, wine, or France, Slate wine columnist Michael Steinberger's new book, Au Revoir To All That: Food, Wine, and the End of France is required reading. Steinberger has done remarkably thorough research to detail just what has gone wrong in French gastronomy. Drawing on astonishing tidbits like the identity of France's largest private sector employer (McDonald's), Steinberger convincingly explains why so many of its greatest chefs have grown complacent, its greatest gastronomic guide so off-track, and its winemakers just plain broke. In spite of all the bad news, the book is a ripping fun read and is even a little optimistic, as Steinberger points out a few key men and women bucking the trends. I'm posting his list of innovative winemakers over on the Tasting Room blog; after the jump, in honor of Bastille Day, Steinberger lists five chefs he thinks could lead France out of its current rut.