The Modest Brit Taking Over for Gordon Ramsay in London
Simon Rogan is one of England’s most brilliant chefs, and also one of its most press-shy.
Simon Rogan is one of England’s most brilliant chefs, and also one of its most press-shy. Since 2002, he’s been quietly overseeing his flagship, L’Enclume, in a medieval village 300 miles north of London. A locavore pioneer (he has focused exclusively on British ingredients since 2005), he’s famous for dishes like venison tartare, served on platters made of slate mined 20 miles away. Now, as the new chef at London’s Claridge’s hotel, he’s taken over the high-profile position that Gordon Ramsay held for 12 years. In preparation, he expanded his farm tenfold to supply the ingredients for dishes like grilled lettuces with truffle custard. When Ramsay left Claridge’s, rumors circulated about potential replacements from around the world, “but I thought that was a shame,” Rogan says. “A British hotel like Claridge’s should have a British chef at the helm. Then I thought, That should be me.” When the hotel approached him, he jumped at the opportunity. And now the reclusive chef is at the center of one of the world’s best restaurant cities. feraatclaridges.co.uk.