“Everyone asks me, what is it about food from Italy? What is it about dishes like bucatini all’Amatriciana that are hundreds of years old and yet are still eaten there every single day?" says F&W Best New Chef 1999 Marc Vetri. "I think it’s because they’ve worked out the perfect combinations of salt, texture, flavor, everything.” At his flagship Vetri, the Philadelphia empire builder obsesses over creating dishes that capture all those elements so prized by the Italians. One of his most lauded successes is the sweet onion crepe. “It has these perfectly slow-roasted, caramelized onions wrapped in a soft-on-the-inside, crispy-on-the-outside crepe, and is served with a creamy fondue sauce—everything marries well,” he says.