Memories of my favorite lobster roll spot—Rangeley, Maine's Pine Tree Frosty, a tiny wooden shack known (not incongruously, in my book) for its amazing lobster rolls and ice cream—came to mind recently when I was a few hours south in Portland, Maine. So while December isn't exactly lobster season, I had to have a roll. Unfortunately, the Lobster Shack at Two Lights in Cape Elizabeth—Best New Chef 2007 Steve Corry's favorite cheap eats spot—was closed for the season, but I still managed to score a delicious lobster roll at the Dry Dock Restaurant Tavern on Commercial Street in Portland. Unlike any lobster roll I'd ever eaten, the Dry Dock's version had huge chunks of unadorned sweet lobster meat—the mayo was served on the side, and there wasn't even any butter—packed into a toasted "dog" roll. That's what I call no-frills brilliant.

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