Inside Shanghai's Speak Low

By Food & Wine
Updated May 08, 2019
Credit: Photo © Algirdas Bakas
Shanghai’s new speakeasies specialize in showmanship—secret passageways, retro themes—and stellar drinks with Asian flavors.
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Speak Low

Credit: Photo © Bianca Jackson

Speak Low is a speakeasy on steroids, with hidden passageways connecting all four levels. Created by Shingo Gokan of New York City’s pioneering Angel’s Share, the place offers a different drinks experience on each floor. 579 Fuxing Zhong Rd.; 6416-0133.

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Floor 1: The Secret Entrance

Credit: Photo © Algirdas Bakas

Visitors to Speak Low must pass through Ocho, a shop that displays swizzle spoons and cocktail books alongside slushie machines dispensing piña coladas in paper cups.

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Floor 2: Simple Cocktails

Credit: Photo © Algirdas Bakas

The most casual, rowdy scene is on this floor. Customers crowd around the bar snacking on pickled eggs topped with aioli while friendly, aproned barkeeps mix twists on familiar cocktails, like an English Mule made with tea-infused gin.

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Floor 2: Hidden Staircase

Credit: Photo © Algirdas Bakas

A bookcase at the back of Ocho slides open to reveal a secret brick passageway and stairs leading up.

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Floor 3: Complex Cocktails

Credit: Photo © Algirdas Bakas

More serene than the space on the second floor; experts behind a copper-top bar make ambitious cocktails like the Speak Low, a matcha drink paired with dark chocolate slivers.

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Floor 3: Secret Door

For third-floor access, find the map posted in a dead-end hallway and press Shanghai.

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Floor 4: Whiskey

Credit: Photo © Algirdas Bakas

Past an “Employees Only” sign lies this exclusive bar outfitted with a 1920s organ. But just knowing where the entrance is won’t get you in—you must be one of the 32 club members to enter.

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Floor 4: Storage for Regulars

Credit: Photo © Algirdas Bakas

Lockers store rare Japanese whiskeys and Scotch that belong to club members.

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