Best Places for Natural Wine in Paris
La Verre Volé
Opened in 2000, this is the forerunner of the cave-à-manger trend—a wine shop outfitted with a kitchen. Juicy Syrahs from France’s Ardèche and independent-grower Champagnes are the focus, along with hearty dishes like boudin noir. 67 rue de Lancry; leverrevole.fr.
Aux Deux Amis
Chef David Vincent-Loyola has such a loyal food-industry following for his inventive tapas that it’s not unusual for the place to be standing-room-only on weeknights. The retro, slightly divey aesthetic only adds to the allure. 45 rue Oberkampf; 011-33-1-58-30-38-13.
Yard & Back Yard
The terrace at Jane Drotter’s restaurant Yard, adjacent to Père Lachaise, is always packed with visiting winemakers. The open kitchen at this former construction yard (hence the name) turns out dishes like cider-steamed mussels, smoked trout with horseradish and tender pork shoulder cooked in milk. On busy nights, the crowd spills over into Back Yard (next door, actually) for Beaujolais and snacks. 6 rue de Mont Louis; 011-33-1-40-09-70-30.
Camille Fourmont repurposed a cheese shop into this smart neighborhood aperitif-hour hangout. You can buy the inexpensive bottles on the shelves to take home, but they taste even better here, at one of the three small tables or the zinc-topped bar, paired with Galician sardines or broad beans sprinkled with bergamot. 67 rue St.-Maur; 011-33-9-83-56-94-11.
Septime & Septime La Cave
Chef Bertrand Grébaut has an astonishing ability to transform three ingredients (such as quail, salsify and cardamom) into an extraordinary dish. Fine-tuned hospitality and a cellar stocked with elegant natural wines also make Septime one of the city’s most sought-after reservations. If you’re shut out, try Grébaut’s wine bar, Septime La Cave, across the street. 80 rue de Charonne and 3 rue Basfroi; septime-charonne.fr.
Can’t land a reservation at Basque superstar chef Inaki Aizpitarte’s Le Chateaubriand? Head to his fast-paced spot next door. It can feel a bit shrine-like, all marble and mirrors, but whimsical dishes like anchovies, olives and guindilla peppers on sticks, plus the approachable wine list, lighten the mood. 131 Av. Parmentier; restaurantledauphin.net.
Restaurateur Pierre Moussié and his wife have revamped an 1850s brothel into a stunning hotel, with 18 rooms furnished in vintage detail. It’s (conveniently) within walking distance of the bars and bistros on this list. From $168; 90 rue René Boulanger; hotelprovidenceparis.com.
When the boisterous 11th arrondissement restaurant Bones reopened as Jones last summer, the menu got a little less fussy and the clientele seemed to grow up. What didn’t change? The eye toward fresh, well-sourced ingredients and the wine list, which gives as much consideration to unheralded regions like Roussillon as to Burgundy. 43 rue Godefroy Cavaignac; jonescaferestaurant.com.
The clown-themed design scheme may sound questionable, but the backstory is legit: The space is much unchanged (although impeccably restored) from its days as the canteen for the circus next door. Expect to find the extremes of natural wine, like Jean-Yves Péron’s funky, deep-hued whites from Savoie, and a parade of gorgeous small plates prepared by Japanese chef Sota Atsumi. 114 rue Amelot; clown-bar-paris.fr.
La Pointe du Grouin
By day, chef-owner Thierry Breton’s so-called modern tavern acts as a souped-up sandwich shop. By night, customers pour themselves natural wines from magnums to a Beastie Boys soundtrack and pay for sausages, pig snouts and frog legs using a house currency called grouins, obtained by exchanging euros at a video arcade–like machine. 8 rue de Belzunce; lapointedugrouin.com.