Stuffed pizza, sfogliatella and massive museums. 

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Gran Caffe Gambrinus
Credit: © Gianni Cipriano

Before you do anything else, have a hot sfogliatella (shell-shaped pastry) at Attanasio.

Credit: © Getty Images/iStockphoto

Then, in no particular order...

See the catacombs at Santa Maria della Sanità. Buy something leather at Tramontano. Have gelato at Gay-Odin. Hang arty on Piazza Dante. Pistoletto’s mirror paintings are cool. Head west and have lunch in Pozzuoli; I like Ristorante Bobò for seafood. Visit Teatro di San Carlo for 15 minutes of royalty. Eat a ripieno fritto (stuffed fried pizza) at Di Matteo. Walk Spaccanapoli to see the historic center. Marvel at Caravaggio’s Flagellation and Titian’s Danaë at the Museo di Capodimonte and then’s too big! Have dinner in the Posillipo neighborhood at ’A Fenestella. Finish with caffè and amaro at Gran Caffè Gambrinus.