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  3. Best New Restaurants in France

Best New Restaurants in France

By Food & Wine
Updated March 08, 2017
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Bloempot
Credit: Photo courtesy of Bloempot
From Paris to Provence, writer Jane Sigal explores the incredible diversity of French cooking today.
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Clown Bar; Paris

Clown Bar
Credit: Photo © Jérôme Galland

Despite its glass ceiling painted with circus scenes, Clown Bar is a serious small-plates restaurant. In the kitchen, Sota Atsumi (a Japanese native who trained with Joël Robuchon and Michel Troisgros) combines delicacy, mandoline-sharp technique and smart ingredient sourcing to create modern French dishes like haricot verts with strawberries and feta. 114 rue Amelot; clown-bar-paris.fr.

  • French Recipes

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Bistrot Constant; Midi-Pyrénées

Bistrot Constant
Credit: Photo courtesy of Tourist Development Agency of Tarn-et-Garonne

Paris bistrotier Christian Constant has reinvented a lock-keeper’s house on the Canal du Midi in his native southwest France. Walkers and barge cruisers stop in for some charcuterie at the bar while, in the dining room, Constant re-creates Escoffier cooking in a generous way, with lamb en cocotte and baked potatoes stuffed with pigs’ feet. 25 rue de l’Usine, Montech; maisonconstant.com.

  • Fast French Dishes

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Fontevraud; Loire Valley

Fontevraud
Credit: Photo © Nicolas Mathéus/Courtesy Fontevraud-le Restaurant

A Canadian architect and French designer have transformed a medieval priory into a sybaritic hotel and restaurant (the dining room’s in the cloister). Thibaut Ruggeri’s refined menu focuses on local ingredients, like honey from the abbey’s bees and, amazingly, mushrooms grown in the limestone caves that were excavated to build the abbey in the 12th century. Fontevraud-l’Abbaye; fontevraud.fr.

  • Endangered French Classics

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Villa Marie Jeanne; Marseille

Villa Marie Jeanne
Credit: Photo courtesy Villa Marie Jeanne

Valeilles de Montmirail buys little rockfish and conger eel directly from night fishermen in the Vieux Port, then transforms them into an epic bouillabaisse—a benchmark for this city’s defining dish. Diners eat family-style at shared tables in the garden of his family’s 18th-century stone manor. 4 rue Chicot; villa-marie-jeanne.com.

  • French Pairings

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Le Canon; Nice

Le Canon
Credit: Photo © Anthony Lanneretonne

You’d expect this excellent new bistro with Formica tables and flea-market chairs to offer Côte d’Azur comfort food. Instead, Moroccan-born, Nice-raised chef Elmahdi Mobarik serves inventions like farro spaghetti and roast rabbit “à la Royal Air Maroc”(with North African spices). 23 rue Meyerbeer; 011-33-4-93-79-09-24.

  • French Picnic Ideas

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Percherons; Céret

Percherons
Credit: Photo courtesy of Restaurant Percherons

Mathieu Perez, who ran the kitchenette at the beloved Les Deux Amis wine bar in Paris, decamped to the foothills of the Pyrenees to open this superb bistro. The six-course Catalan market menu is one of the best deals on the Spanish border. 7 rue de la République; 011-33-4-11-64-41-12.

  • French Hors d'Oeuvres

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Café Sillon; Lyon

Café Sillon
Credit: Photo © Charlotte Bouvet

After a two-year sabbatical cooking in restaurants from Italy to Peru, kitchen auteur Mathieu Rostaing-Tayard is back. In a city full of pork-loving bouchons (bistros), his menu is clever, complex and vegetable-centric. Even desserts verge on the botanical: Scoops of black sesame seed ice cream in cherry soup go surprisingly well with eggplant jam. 46 avenue Jean Jaurès; 011-33-4-78-72-09-73.

  • French Desserts

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Miles; Bordeaux

Miles
Credit: Photo courtesy of MILES

The Israeli, Japanese, New Caledonian and Vietnamese-French partners at Miles (as in distance traveled) represent what food in France is becoming: nomadic, spicier, more personal. They cook through the prism of their origins in a chef’s-choice format of reimagined French dishes, like crisped pollock with carrots and miso. 33 rue du Cancera; restaurantmiles.com.

  • Lessons in French Cookies

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La Grande Maison; Bordeaux

La Grande Maison
Credit: Photo © Deepix

If you never had the chance to eat at Jamin in Paris under Joël Robuchon, his new restaurant in a mansion is a dream haute-cuisine revival. Chef Tomonori Danzaki sends out bountiful cuts of meat—whole racks of lamb, spit-roasted chickens—that servers expertly carve at the table. Guests who stay overnight in one of the Napoleon III–style rooms, each named for a Bordeaux vineyard, get a bottle of the matching wine. 10 rue Labottière; lagrandemaison-bordeaux.com.

  • French Main Courses

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Bloempot; Lille

Bloempot
Credit: Photo courtesy of Bloempot

The entrance to this restaurant is through sky-blue double doors, with the only signage a scrawled adhesive label stuck to the letter box. Inside, a brick-walled carpenter’s atelier has been repurposed as a canteen. Befitting the location near the Belgian border, French Top Chef finalist Florent Ladeyn interprets Flemish cuisine in a hyperlocal, naturalist style. Dishes like shaved beets with haddock and nettle cream pair beautifully with one of the rare artisanal beers on the list.22 rue des Bouchers; bloempot.fr.

  • Healthy French Recipes

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1 of 10 Clown Bar; Paris
2 of 10 Bistrot Constant; Midi-Pyrénées
3 of 10 Fontevraud; Loire Valley
4 of 10 Villa Marie Jeanne; Marseille
5 of 10 Le Canon; Nice
6 of 10 Percherons; Céret
7 of 10 Café Sillon; Lyon
8 of 10 Miles; Bordeaux
9 of 10 La Grande Maison; Bordeaux
10 of 10 Bloempot; Lille

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Best New Restaurants in France
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