I'm not generally big on restaurant openings—it's always too much of a fight to get to the bar and the server while you're avoiding the crush of people you don't want to talk to. But if there's any way I can get to the launch of Alain Ducasse's super-deluxe bistro Benoit tonight, in New York City's midtown, I'm going to go. Of course Ducasse will be there (he has to be, he's the host). But now, word comes that Gordon Ramsay, who, by my count, has 12 total Michelin stars to Ducasse's 15, will be stopping by, too. I have no idea what they'll talk about (did Ducasse ever play soccer like Ramsay did?). Maybe they'll figure out how to take down the only person who has more stars than either of them—chef Joël Robuchon, who's got 17.