At Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne's Tavern in Los Angeles, chef Julie Robles makes this vegetarian gratin in individual dishes with a topping of candied pepitas (pumpkin seeds). This version is for one big gratin garnished with plain toasted pumpkin seeds.
Pairing: Fresh, melony Chenin Blanc: 2009 MAN Vintners.
Sam Mogannam's wife, Anne Walker, usually makes this dessert with Arkansas Black applesan heirloom varietyfrom Mogannam's parents' orchard near Sacramento. The dense, tart apples are harvested late in the season, making them a good Thanksgiving choice. Granny Smiths are an easier-to-find alternative.
Pairing: Late Harvest Pinot Gris: 2007 Holdredge Grace's Cuvée or 2007 Kendall Jackson.
Chef Lulzim Rexhepi of New York City's Kittichai cuts turkey legs crosswise before simmering them first in broth, then in a delightful Thai red-curry sauce. This version skips the broth. To simplify the recipe more, have your butcher cut the drumsticks, or just cook them whole.
Pairing: Vibrant, medium-bodied Spanish red: 2009 D. Ventura Viña do Burato Mencía.
At Akasha in L.A., chef Akasha Richmond prepares a sweet-and-spicy glaze for ham using house-made pomegranate-jalapeño jelly. An easier alternative: doctoring store-bought jalapeño jelly with pomegranate juice.
Pairing: Rich red Rhône blend: 2007 Domaine de la Terre Rouge Tête-à-Tête.