For this unexpectedly fun dish, Matt Lightner tosses grilled torpedo onions (a sweet heirloom variety from Italy) with grilled squid bodies. Since the onions and the squid resemble each other so much in color and shape, each bite is a small surprise.
Pairing: Pinot Noir from New Zealand: 2008 Kim Crawford Marlborough or 2007 Seresin Leah
Clayton Miller makes a highly seasoned, Indian-inflected tomato jam with ginger, cinnamon, cumin and cayenne. It's a terrific accompaniment to his hush puppiescheekily nicknamed "shut-your-piehole puppies" by the cooks in his kitchen.
Pairing: A crisp pale ale: Geary's or Samuel Adams