These soft shell crab sandwiches are gourmet but easy to assemble. Pair with a vivid, red cherry-inflected rosé, such as one from the Russian River Valley.
Prepare the soft-shell crabs by using scissors to snip off their eyes. Lift each side of the tip shell and remove the gills underneath.
In a small bowl, whisk the mayonnaise, cornichons, red onion, tarragon, capers and mustard. Season with salt and pepper.
In a large skillet, arrange the pancetta slices in a single layer. Place a flat pot lid, slightly smaller than the skillet, directly on the pancetta to weight it down. Cook over moderate heat, turning once, until the pancetta is crisp.
Season the soft-shell crabs with salt and pepper and dust them generously with flour.
Add the crabs to the skillet and cook over high heat, turning once, until crisp.
Spread the remoulade on the buns. Arrange the pancetta on the bottoms and top with the arugula, tomato slices and crabs. Close the sandwiches and serve.