F&W Photo Tour: Bologna
Paolo Atti & Figli
Tortellini, called “Venus’s navel" because of their shape, are one of the symbols of Bologna. At Paolo Atti e Figli, tortellini are still made following the traditional recipe and packed in the original boxes. The filling is made following “the Petronian DOC recipe submitted to the Chamber of Commerce by the Academy of Cuisine and the Brotherhood of Tortellini”: pork loin, ham, authentic mortadella (also known as Bologna in Italy), Parmesan cheese, chicken eggs and nutmeg.
Tortellini at Paolo Atti & Figli
“Tell your husband you made these tortellini!” Via Caprarie, 7 Bologna. paoloatti.com
Baked apple with buffalo ricotta cheese at E' Cucina Leopardi, Via G. Leopardi, 4 Bologna. cesaremarretti.com/e-cucina-leopardi
At E' Cucina Leopardi, the restaurant owned by Italian chef Cesare Marretti, suspended bikes and smiles welcome you in this posh place, with its attention to detail. The tableware is designed by Marretti himself.
Seafood minestrone at E' Cucina Leopardi.
Piazza Maggiore is the main square of Bologna. A few blocks to the east are the Towers of Bologna, a group of medieval structures typical of the city. Between the 12th and 13th centuries, there were more than 150 towers citywide. Torre degli Asinelli is the taller of the two most prominent ones, also known as the Two Towers. Off the Piazza Maggiore is the narrow street Via Pescherie Vecchie, in the Quadrilateral, an area of ancient handicraft traditions that was developed in the Middle Ages and has retained this over time.
La Camera a Sud
A café and wine bar located in the former Jewish ghetto, close to the university area, that’s named after a song by the Italian singer-songwriter Vinicio Capossela. Via Valdonica, 5 Bologna. cameraasud.net
Taking a Break at La Camera a Sud
This is the perfect place to rest after a day of walking around Bologna. You can have a cup of tea or a glass of wine while reading a book or having a conversation with the young men who work here.
The Fountain of Neptune
Located in Piazza del Nettuno, next to Piazza Maggiore, is a bronze figure of Neptune by the Flemish sculptor Giambologna.
A small flower shop with a Provençal touch just a few steps away from Piazza Maggiore. Via Santa Margherita, 6 Bologna. fridas.it
At this cozy restaurant and bar, cocktails are created by the mixologist Enrico Scarzella. Piazza Minghetti, 1/A Bologna
Tortelloni di Zucca at Casa Minghetti
Tortelloni di Zucca. You are in the homeland of fresh pasta, so do not miss any chance to have them at lunch or dinner.
The city of Bologna is also known as La Dotta—the learned one—in reference to its university, the oldest in the Western world. The Archiginnasio of Bologna is one of the city’s most important buildings. The palace, constructed between 1562 and 1563, was heavily damaged in 1944 by bombing and subsequently rebuilt. The public library is not open to tourists. You can visit the Anatomical Theatre, built by Antonio Levante for anatomy lessons in 1637, and the Stabat Mater Hall, for students of ancient law.
Offelleria Sorelle Fosser
The Fosser sisters, Vernoica and Rebecca, began Offelleria sorelle Fosser in 2010.
Offelleria Sorelle Fosser—a Concept Store
Zoo is a concept store, bakery and gallery where you can enjoy your meal while surrounded by children’s books and furniture.
Cheesecake at Offelleria Sorelle Fosser
If you are looking for a slice of cheesecake, lemon meringue pie, a muffin or a cupcake, this is your place. They also serve vegetarian and vegan meals.
Senape Vivaio Urbano
At the end of the famous Via del Pratello, turn right to discover a plant nursery surrounded by buildings. Via Santa Croce, 10 Bologna. senapevivaiourbano.com
Primroses at Senape Vivaio Urbano
A hidden gem in the city center that carries everything from herbs and primroses to gardening tools and interior and exterior design pieces.
This is a typical specialty from the Emilia and Marche regions. It can be eaten as an appetizer or as a dessert.
Located in Piazza Maggiore, the Basilica of San Petronio is the main church of Bologna.
Palazzo Re Enzo
Palazzo Re Enzo takes its name from Re Enzo, son of Federico II of Sardinia. The king was imprisoned here from 1249 until his death in 1272. Built in 1245 as an extension of Palazzo del Podestà, the palace is near the Tower dell’Arengo, whose bells summoned citizens for extraordinary events.
L’Esprit Nouveau Pavilion
The Esprit Nouveau pavilion was originally designed in 1925 by the Swiss-French architect Le Corbusier for the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris. A replica was built in Bologna in 1977 in the middle of a small park, close to the Bologna Exhibition Centre. It opened to the public in January 2015 during Arte Fiera Bologna—the most important international fair of modern and contemporary art in Italy— thanks to Cristian Chironi. Chironi is a Sardinian artist who lived in the pavilion for three weeks for his project “My House Is a Le Corbusier,” furnishing the pavilion with iconic design pieces by Le Corbusier.
Trattoria della Santa
Tagliatelle with ragù alla Bolognese.
The basilica of Santo Stefano is located in the eponymous square and is known locally as Sette Chiese—its layout includes seven churches.
Located on Via Castiglione, La Sorbetteria Castiglione makes some of the best gelato in town, from traditional flavors like pistachio to not-so-common ones like gianduja to new experimental flavors named gli speciali e i golosi (the specials and the gluttonous). lasorbetteria.it
Canale di Reno
The canal system of Bologna was created to connect the city with the Po River and provide water and mechanical energy to factories. Through a square window on Via Piella, the canal looks like a framed picture.