The name Chicago comes from the Algonquin word chicagoua, which some historians say means "ramp"—a wild onion with a delicious garlicky flavor. That's one reason Chicago chefs like Tony Mantuano feel a sentimental attachment to the pungent spring plant. (Scallions are also great substitutes.) More Pizza Recipes
For the cheese, Mantuano recommends the Crescenza by Paula Lambert's Mozzarella Company in Dallas (mozzco.com). You can also use water-packed fresh mozzarella or fiore di latte; drain the cheese well before grating it.
To drink with his ramp-topped pizza, Mantuano suggests a Dolcetto d'Alba from Italy's Piedmont region. It's light-bodied enough not to overwhelm the pizza's flavors, yet it has a peppery zip that can match the ramps' intensity.