Chef Stéphane Rossillon simmers deeply flavorful dried morels then combines them with the soaking liquid and cream to make a luscious sauce for pasta and his hazelnut-dusted roast veal. Slideshow: Veal Recipes
Preheat the oven to 425°. Spread the hazelnuts in a pie plate and toast for 5 to 7 minutes, until golden. Leave the oven on. Transfer the nuts to a clean kitchen towel and rub them together to remove the skins. Let the hazelnuts cool completely, then chop them.
In a large ovenproof skillet, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over moderately high heat. Season the veal roast with salt and pepper. Add the roast to the skillet and brown it all over, about 5 minutes. Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast the veal for about 1 hour, turning the meat and basting it with the pan juices every 15 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers 140°. Transfer the roast to a carving board and let rest for 30 minutes. Degrease the pan juices and reserve in a small bowl.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, cover the morels with 1 cup of boiling water. Set a small plate over the morels to keep them submerged and let stand until softened, about 20 minutes. Lift the morels from the soaking liquid and rinse them to get rid of any grit. Cut any large morels in half. Strain and reserve the soaking liquid.
In a large saucepan of boiling salted water, cook the asparagus until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Slice the asparagus into 2-inch lengths on the diagonal.
In a large skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the shallot and garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the morels and cremini mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. Cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are tender and their liquid has evaporated, 7 to 8 minutes. Add the wine and simmer over moderately high heat until almost evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add the reserved pan juices and morel soaking liquid and simmer for 3 minutes. Add the cream and simmer until thickened to a sauce consistency, about 3 minutes. Stir in the asparagus and lemon juice and season with salt and pepper.
In a small nonstick skillet, melt the remaining 1/2 tablespoon of butter in the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add the chopped hazelnuts and panko and cook, stirring, until the panko is golden and crisp, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the parsley and season with salt and pepper.
In a large saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the strozzapreti until al dente. Reserve 1/2 cup of the pasta water, then drain the pasta. Add the pasta and 1/4 cup of the pasta water to the morel sauce and cook, stirring, to coat, about 2 minutes. Stir in the chives.
Untie the roast and slice the meat 1/4 inch thick. Spoon the pasta onto plates, top with the veal and drizzle with the pan juices. Sprinkle with the hazelnut panko and serve.