Bill Yosses of New York City's Josephs (formerly Citarella) has a split personality. The flamboyant Bill, the boy-genius pastry chef, appeared at a local chocolate show in full 17th-century regalia. The geeky Bill, on the other hand, gets so sidetracked contemplating the differences between a peach cobbler and a peach betty for his book The Perfect Finish that they both burn in the oven. Bill's two sides make him push his desserts to the limit, whether he's adding black sesame powder to his meringues or doubling the butter in the delectable lemon curd that tops these cupcakes.Plus: More Dessert Recipes and Tips
These cupcakes call for cake flour rather than all-purpose. Cake flour has less gluten protein than all-purpose, making for a lighter, springier cake. If you don't have cake flour, replace 7/8 the amount called for with all-purpose flour; in this case, it would be 1 2/3 cups of all-purpose flour instead of cake flour.