How to Make It
In a large saucepan, cover the pinto beans with 1 inch of cold water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the beans are tender, 40 minutes to 1 hour. Replenish the water as necessary. Season the beans with salt.
Meanwhile, in a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the olive oil. Add the bacon and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until crisp, 7 to 8 minutes. Transfer the bacon to a plate.
Season the meat with salt and pepper. Add half of the cubes to the casserole and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until browned all over, about 5 minutes; transfer to the plate. Brown the remaining meat.
Return the first batch of meat and the bacon to the casserole. Add the onion and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic, oregano, thyme, smoked paprika, chile powder, cumin, piment d'Espelette and bay leaf and cook, stirring, until very fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomato paste and chipotles and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and 4 cups of the stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to moderately low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the meat is tender, about 1 hour; add the remaining 1 cup of stock if the chili gets too thick. Drain the pinto beans and add them to the chili. Simmer for 10 minutes. Serve the chili with sour cream, cheese, scallions, cilantro and focaccia or quinoa.
Tri-tip steak, named for its triangular shape, is cut from the bottom sirloin. It is available at butcher shops and supermarkets.