Tonnarelli with Caper Pesto

Fill a stockpot with 6 quarts of water, cover and bring to a boil.

In a small saucepan, combine the olive oil with the garlic and bring to a boil, cooking briskly until the garlic is golden. Remove from the heat and let cool; swirl the pan to hasten the cooling.

Transfer the garlic and oil to a blender or mini-processor. Add the tomato pulp and the capers and pulse until chopped. Add the parsley and oregano and pulse until chunky, then add the vinegar.

Add 3 1/2 tablespoons salt to the boiling water and add the tonnarelli. Cover partially until the water just returns to a boil, then uncover, stir the pasta and cook until al dente. Drain the tonnarelli, reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta water. Toss the pasta with the caper paste. If the linguine is dry, add some of the pasta water, 1 tablespoon at a time. Garnish with Pecorino Romano cheese if desired and serve immediately.

If you cannot find capers in salt, you can use brine-packed capers, with these modifications: double the amount called for in the recipe and add 1/8 teaspoon kosher salt to give them a boost. So as not to overwhelm their delicate taste, reduce the oregano to 2 tablespoons.

A good Sicilian wine is best here. Choose a white wine that emphasizes the Sauvignon Blanc grape.