Three-Cheese Fondue with Pickles

In a bowl, toss the cheeses and flour. Rub the inside of a fondue pot or an enameled cast-iron casserole with the cut sides of the garlic. Add the sparkling wine and simmer over moderately low heat for 3 minutes. Add the cheese in small handfuls, stirring constantly until melted before adding the next handful. Stir in the kirsch and nutmeg. Remove from the heat and season with salt and pepper. Serve hot with cornichons, bread and fennel.