Tandoori Chicken Drumsticks with Cilantro-Shallot Relish

Preheat the oven to 450°. Set a rack on each of 2 large baking sheets. In a small skillet, toast the paprika, garam masala, cumin, coriander and turmeric over moderately low heat, stirring, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer the spices to a medium bowl and cool slightly. Stir in the ginger, garlic, yogurt, lemon juice and 2 tablespoons of the oil and season with salt and pepper.

Make 2 or 3 slashes in each drumstick. In a large bowl, toss the chicken with 2 tablespoons of the canola oil and season with salt and pepper. Add the spiced yogurt and rub it onto the chicken. Arrange the chicken on the racks, leaving 2 inches between the pieces. Roast for 45 minutes, turning occasionally, until the chicken is golden brown and cooked through. Light the broiler and broil the chicken 6 inches from the heat for about 5 minutes, until lightly charred and crisp.

In a small bowl, stir the cilantro, shallot, vinegar and the remaining 1/4 cup of oil; season with salt. Serve with the chicken.