You can make borani with other vegetables too. One of the most appealing is beet borani—the yogurt’s slight tartness is a great foil for the sweetness of the beets. Place 6 medium beets (1 1⁄2 to 2 pounds) in a roasting pan, coat with a little oil, and roast at 400 F until cooked through, about 1 hour, or boil them whole until cooked through. Let cool. Peel the beets and chop into about 1⁄2-inch dice. I have a weakness for beets with cumin or fennel, so I suggest tossing a generous pinch of one or the other into the pan as you fry the onion, along with 1⁄2 teaspoon salt. Once the onion is softened and touched with color, add it to the chopped beets. To serve, combine the beets with about 1 cup drained yogurt (from 1 1⁄2 cups full-fat yogurt) seasoned with 1⁄2 teaspoon salt, without mixing them completely. Top with about 3 tablespoons coarsely chopped toasted walnuts or, for a splashier look, with coarsely chopped pistachios.