Spiced Squabs with Onion Compote
The onion compote can be refrigerated overnight and reheated.
Like most dark-meat birds, squab is better with red wine than white. Red Burgundy (made from Pinot Noir) has a juicy earthiness that is marvelous with the little birds. Top Burgundies are very expensive, but some outlying towns in the region—Chorey-lès-Beaune is one example—provide terrific wines at moderate prices.