Spaghetti with Shiitakes, Parmesan, and Pepper

In a large frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over moderate heat. Add the mushrooms, 1/2 teaspoon of the pepper, and the salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are browned, 5 to 10 minutes.

Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add the broth and bring to a simmer. Cook until reduced to about 1 cup, 2 to 3 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a large pot of boiling, salted water, cook the spaghetti until just done, about 12 minutes. Drain. Toss the spaghetti with the mushroom sauce, the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and 1/4 teaspoon pepper, and the Parmesan. Serve with more cheese.

Variation Add a couple of tablespoons chopped fresh herbs, such as chives, tarragon, thyme, or parsley, to the spaghetti along with the Parmesan.

The mix of flavors opens the door to all sorts of wine choices. To match the earthiness of the mushrooms, try a white based on the Chardonnay grape; a Bourgogne Blanc from France would be particularly good. To echo the black pepper, look for a red with a similar flavor, such as a Dolcetto from Italy or a Petite Sirah from California.