Snapper and Spiced Crab with Lime-Coriander Broth

Melt the butter in a large saucepan. Add the onion, celery, garlic and ginger and cook over moderate heat until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the coriander seeds, crushed red pepper, cardamom, star anise, peppercorns, cilantro and basil sprigs and lime leaves and cook for 1 minute. Add the wine and cook over moderate heat until reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Add the fish sauce, lime juice and water and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderately low heat for 15 minutes. Strain the broth into a small saucepan, season with salt; keep warm.

In a small skillet, combine the cumin, cardamom, coriander, fennel and star anise and toast over moderately high heat until fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer to a spice grinder and let cool, then grind to a fine powder.

In a medium skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add the onion and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened and just beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the ground spices and cook over low heat for 1 minute. Fold in the crabmeat, cilantro and lemon and lime juices and remove from the heat. Season with salt and pepper.

In each of 2 large nonstick skillets, heat 1 1/2 tablespoons of the remaining oil until shimmering. Season the snapper with salt and pepper; add to the skillets, skin side down. Cook over high heat, gently shaking the skillet, until the skin is golden brown and crisp, 5 minutes. Flip the fillets and cook for 2 minutes longer.

Mound the spiced crab mixture in warmed shallow bowls and top with the snapper fillets, skin side up. Spoon the broth all around and serve right away.