Smoky Shrimp Purloo

In a pot, bring 4 cups of water to a boil. Add the shrimp heads and shells and simmer for 20 minutes, skimming off any foam from the surface. Strain the shrimp broth into a bowl and keep warm. Discard the heads and shells.

In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the peanut oil. Add the clams and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until golden and fragrant, 2 minutes. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring, until the onion starts to soften, about 2 minutes. Stir in the rice, then stir in the trout and bay leaves and season with salt. Add enough of the shrimp broth to cover the rice (about 2 1/2 cups) and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover and cook until the rice is just tender, 20 minutes.

Lay the shrimp on the rice in a single layer. Cover and cook until the shrimp are cooked through, 6 minutes. Discard the bay leaves.

Spoon the rice and shrimp onto plates. Scrape up the crunchy rice crust on the bottom of the casserole, spoon some over the shrimp and serve.