Smoky Greens

Wash the greens thoroughly in cold water and coarsely chop the leaves; do not dry them.

Heat the duck fat in a large, heavy stockpot. Add the chopped onions and cook over moderately high heat, stirring often, until softened, about 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Stir in the greens by the handful, adding more as the previous batch starts to wilt. Add the chipotles and season lightly with salt and pepper. Cover and cook over low heat, stirring often, until the greens are very tender, about 1 hour.

Discard the chipotles if using dried. Stir in the vinegar and season with salt and pepper. Transfer the greens to a bowl and pass the Tabasco at the table.