Ingredients Seafood Slow-Roasted Swordfish Birria 5.0 (1) 1 Review Learning to work with dried chiles in the kitchen is one of the most rewarding techniques you will ever learn. And contrary to popular belief, that doesn’t always lead to breathing out fire with every bite or spending entire days making mole. In this case, it’s as easy as toasting a few dried chiles on your cast iron, throwing it in all in a blender with some spices and garlic, and making one of the most flavorful dishes in Mexico: birria.Birria was the first dish that my wife Paola made for me when I visited her on a frigid, rainy day in Portland, Oregon. Paola hails from Puerta Vallarta, in the coastal Mexican state of Jalisco, and her version of her home state’s famed dish isn’t as brothy as ones you’ve probably had at Mexican restaurants in the States. Instead, she treats the sauce like a thick, wet rub that resembles the old-world style of birria tatemada, a style of birria where goat is slow-roasted in a clay oven until crusty and tender. It has a lot in common with a bold Jamaican jerk marinade or even an Indian vindaloo paste. It’s a fruity, spiced flavor bomb in every sense of the word, but a controlled one that keeps you coming back for one more bite until it’s all gone.That first night, she made it with lamb shanks, but these days, almost eight years later and married, we’ve been experimenting with seafood versions of Mexican classics. On one of our date nights at the supermarket, we bought some of those thick, rib eye–like slabs of swordfish that were on sale but didn’t know what to do with it when we got home. We had some leftover birria paste—naturally preserved by a healthy dose of vinegar—in the darkest corner of our fridge, and in a moment of sheer hunger and desperation, this amazing seafood variation of the meaty dish was born. The adobo is both in the paste and the salsa, so there is no escaping it.Part of the pleasure of this dish is piling all of the elements onto corn tortillas: The onions, radish, and lime go a long way, so make sure to have plenty of them. Buttery slices of avocado add that satisfying richness. For your fish, look for the thickest slabs of swordfish at the counter, and use a thermometer to get the swordfish just right. And when buying chiles, look for chiles that feel chewy—that’s the sign of a freshly dried chile that will add the richest flavor to the warm and spicy sauce. —Javier Cabral By Javier Cabral Javier Cabral Javier Cabral is a food writer from the barrios of East Los Angeles who has been covering Los Angeles culture and Mexican food for 15 years. He served as a valiant restaurant scout for the late Pulitzer Prize–winning restaurant critic Jonathan Gold at the Los Angeles Times. His first cookbook documenting Guelaguetza's James Beard Award–winning Oaxacan recipes will be out in fall 2019 from Abrams Books. Food & Wine's Editorial Guidelines and Paola Briseño González Paola Briseño González Paola Briseño González is an avid cook from Puerto Vallarta, México, who wrote her first recipe for a Key lime cookie pie at age six. Her cooking is a reflection of her coastal roots and is fueled by her background in food anthropology and classical culinary training. When she is not organizing food festivals or cooking the perfect soft-scrambled eggs for singer J Balvin as his personal chef, she is the Director of Awards and Culinary Events at the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP). She lives in Los Angeles with her husband, a punk rock food writer, and her Old English Sheepdog, Fig. Food & Wine's Editorial Guidelines Published on January 22, 2019 Print Rate It Share Share Tweet Pin Email Photo: Jen Causey Active Time: 25 mins Total Time: 55 mins Yield: 4 Ingredients ADOBO 2 dried ancho chiles, stems removed (about 1 ounce) 3 dried guajillo chiles, stems removed (about 3/4 ounce) 4 dried cascabel chiles, stems removed (1/4 ounce) 1/2 cup chopped white onion 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar 1 tablespoon cumin seeds 1 tablespoon kosher salt 10 black peppercorns 4 large garlic cloves 4 whole cloves FISH 2 pounds (1-inch-thick) skinless swordfish fillets 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil SALSA 1 (14.5-ounce) can diced fire-roasted tomatoes, drained 1 teaspoon kosher salt ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS 1/2 cup finely chopped white onion 2 radishes, thinly sliced Juice of 2 Key limes (about 1 1/2 tablespoons) 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano Kosher salt 1 large avocado, sliced Fresh corn tortillas, warmed, for serving Directions Make the adobo Using a paring knife, cut a slit down the side of each chile. Open each chile, and remove and discard veins and seeds. Heat a large comal or cast-iron skillet over medium. Add chiles, and cook until fragrant and chiles begin to darken, about 30 seconds per side. Remove chiles from pan; set aside. Combine toasted chiles, onion, vinegar, cumin seeds, salt, peppercorns, garlic, and cloves in a blender, and puree until a smooth paste forms. If paste is too thick, add water to thin to desired consistency (I use about 6 tablespoons water to 1 cup adobo). Make the fish Preheat oven to 300°F. Season fish with salt. Spread 3/4 cup adobo over fish to completely coat fillets. Line a medium baking dish with parchment paper. Add fish, and drizzle with oil. Roast in preheated oven on middle rack until flesh is opaque throughout and flakes easily with a fork and a thermometer inserted in center of fillet registers 135°F, about 30 minutes. Let fish rest 10 minutes. Make the salsa In the same blender, add tomatoes, salt, and 1/4 cup adobo. Process until smooth. Make the toppings Toss together onion, radishes, lime juice, and oregano in a small bowl until combined. Season with salt to taste. Serve fish with onion mixture, avocado, salsa, and hot, fresh tortillas. Rate it Print