Guillermo Pernot of ¡Pasión! in Philadelphia (an F&W Best New Chef 1998) learned the best way to cook beef burgers in his native Argentina. He uses freshly ground meat and grills it only until it is cooked to medium rare. All-Time Favorite Burgers
In a large saucepan, combine the corn, tomatillos, jalapeños, vinegar, onion, bell pepper, sugar and the mustard, celery and coriander seeds. Bring to a boil; simmer over moderate heat until thickened, 40 minutes. Let cool and season with salt.
Light a grill. Working in small batches, put a handful of diced skirt steak in a food processor and pulse about 4 times, until very finely chopped. Transfer to a bowl and repeat with the remaining skirt steak. Pat the mixture into 6 burgers.
Season the burgers with salt and pepper and grill over a hot fire until medium rare, 3 minutes per side. About 1 minute before the burgers are done, place the blue cheese neatly on top of them. Set a burger on the bottom half of each roll, spoon some relish onto each, close the sandwiches and serve.
The cooked and cooled tomatillo-corn relish can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.