Shrimp Pili Pili

With kitchen shears, cut down the backs of each shrimp shell, keeping the shells intact. Remove the dark intestinal veins, then thread the shrimp onto 4 metal skewers.

In a medium skillet, melt the butter. Add the Thai chiles, garlic, ginger, red bell pepper, ground cumin and smoked paprika and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a mini food processor, add the lime juice and puree. Stir in the cilantro and season the spiced butter with salt and pepper.

Light a grill. Season the shrimp with salt and pepper, both outside the shell and inside the cut-open back. Grill the shrimp over high heat, basting with the flavored butter and turning often, until just cooked through, about 2 1/2 minutes per side. Spread any remaining butter on the shrimp and serve right away.