Scallion pancakes are traditionally made with lard—the Chinese term for scallion pancakes, cong you bing, literally means "onion grease pancake." Oil isn't just the cooking medium for scallion pancakes, but an essential ingredient required for texture and flavor. For novelist Lan Samantha Chang, who shared this family recipe from her childhood, Crisco was the American shortening closest in consistency to what her father remembered from his own childhood in China. Here, a generous layer of the vegetable shortening not only helps incorporate the fresh scallions into the dough but also creates beautiful and delicious flaky layers. The other unusual thing about Chang's parents' recipe is that it requires the rolling out of two pancakes at once. Back in China, instead of making each bing by itself, her father's family cook would actually roll out an even larger rectangular pastry, making multiple "pancakes" at a time. Rolling out a larger batch of dough also creates more layers, yielding flaky and delicious scallion pancakes.