1 tablespoon Asian fish sauce (nam pla or nuoc mam)*
2 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot
2 1/2 tablespoons chopped capers
1/4 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
3/4 teaspoon salt
Fresh-ground black pepper
1 1/2 pounds skinless salmon fillet
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives or scallion tops
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon (optional)
6 large slices of smoked salmon (about 1/2 pound)
6 ounces baby pea shoots* or 3/4 pound watercress, tough stems removed (about 2 quarts)
1 ounce osetra or sevruga caviar (optional)
6 slices toasted white bread, crusts removed, slices cut diagonally into quarters
How to Make It
In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolk and mustard. Start adding the cooking oil a few drops at a time, whisking constantly. When the sauce begins to emulsify, add the rest of the cooking oil and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a thin stream, still whisking. Whisk in the lime juice, 1 3/4 teaspoons of the lemon juice, the fish sauce, shallot, capers, Tabasco sauce, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper.
Cut the salmon fillet into small dice. Continue cutting the fish until chopped very fine. Put the salmon in a bowl and stir in the sauce and the chopped chives, parsley and tarragon, if using.
Put a slice of smoked salmon on a large tray or a cookie sheet. Put one sixth of the salmon tartare in the middle of the slice and shape the tartare into a patty. Fold the smoked salmon over the salmon tartare. Repeat for the remaining servings. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
In a large bowl, whisk the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, 2 teaspoons lemon juice and 1/4 teaspoon salt and a pinch of pepper. Add the pea shoots and toss. Divide the pea shoots among six serving plates.
With a wide metal spatula, invert one salmon-tartare package onto each pile of greens. Top with a small scoop of caviar and serve at once with the toast.
Asian fish sauce and baby pea shoots are available at Asian markets and specialty-food stores.
For the best results, use the belly portion from the salmon. It is the richest part of the fish and is ideal for a tartare.
A dry Riesling from Alsace has good acidity, which plays well off the richness of the salmon tartare. At the same time, the acidity of the wine is balanced by fruit and floral notes, which will complement the smoked salmon.
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