Roasted Veal Loin with Rosé Pan Sauce

Preheat the oven to 375°. Heat the oil in a large ovenproof skillet. Season the veal with salt and pepper and cook over moderately high heat until browned all over, about 7 minutes. Put the skillet in the oven and roast the veal for about 45 minutes, or until the meat is just slightly pink in the center and reaches 130° on an instant-read thermometer. Transfer the veal to a cutting board, cover loosely with foil and let rest for 5 minutes before slicing.

Set the skillet over high heat and pour in the rosé. Cook, scraping up any browned bits from the pan, until the sauce is reduced to 1/3 cup, about 6 minutes. Whisk in the tarragon and butter. Transfer the sauce to a small bowl and serve with the veal.

Orzo with parsley.

A rich Chardonnay suits the sweet, tender meatiness of the veal, but a Pinot Noir or red Burgundy adds more complexity and underscores the fruitiness of the rosé sauce. A Pinot Noir-based red will also tolerate the salad reasonably well, although no wine is flattered by a vinaigrette dressing.