Risotto with Anchovy and Ginger

In a large stockpot, heat the olive oil. Add the chopped onion, carrots and celery and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are golden, about 5 minutes. Add the fish bones and heads and cook until white, about 5 minutes. Stir in the white wine and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the ice and 8 cups of water and bring to a simmer. Cook over low heat until reduced by half, about 45 minutes. Strain the stock through a cheesecloth-lined sieve and keep warm.

On a work surface, using the side of a chef's knife, mash 3 of the anchovy fillets to a paste. In a large saucepan, cook the rice over moderately low heat, stirring, until translucent around the edges, about 5 minutes. Stir in the white wine and cook over moderate heat until absorbed, 1 minute. Add 1 cup of the warm stock and cook, stirring, until all of the stock is absorbed, about 3 minutes. Add another 1 cup of stock and the anchovy paste and cook, stirring, until the stock is absorbed, about 3 minutes. Repeat 5 more times with the remaining stock; cook until the rice is al dente and suspended in a creamy liquid (reserve any remaining stock for another use). Stir in the unsalted butter until the risotto is creamy. Remove from the heat and let stand for 2 minutes.

Stir in the salted butter and the colatura; season with salt. Spoon the risotto into bowls and garnish with the remaining anchovy fillets. Sprinkle with candied ginger and chives and serve.