Light a grill. Gently form the ground beef into 4 thick patties and season generously with salt and pepper. Grill the patties over moderately high heat until lightly charred on the outside and medium-rare within, about 5 minutes per side. Just before the burgers are done, lay a slice of cheese on each one to melt.
Spread the cut sides of the buns with the melted butter and toast on the grill. Transfer the burgers to the buns. Top with the Griddled Onions, sauerkraut and Red Chili and serve.
Crescenza-Stracchino is a creamy, milky cow's-milk cheese with a soft texture, similar to fresh mozzarella. We like the BelGioioso brand, available at cheese shops or specialty food stores. Buffalo mozzarella makes a fine substitute.
Savory, black plum-inflected Zinfandel from Napa Valley.
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