Chefs like Michael Anthony of NYC's Gramercy Tavern are toying with an unusual technique: smoking fish to order.
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Line a 9-by-13-inch roasting pan with foil; spread with the applewood chips. Cover loosely with foil and char over moderately low heat until heavy smoke gives way to light wisps, about 7 minutes.
Place the trout fillets skin side down on an oiled rack set 2 inches above the chips.
Season the fish with salt and cover with foil; smoke over low heat until just cooked, 5 minutes. Remove the skins, transfer the fish fillets to plates and serve.
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