Perciatelli alla Gricia

Fill a large pot with water, cover and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, in a large heavy saucepan, heat the olive oil. Add the pancetta and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until crisp, abut 10 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Add salt and the perciatelli to the boiling water, Cover partially until the water just returns to a boil, then uncover, stir the pasta and cook until al dente.

Drain the pasta, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water. Add the pasta, pasta water and the 1/2 cup of cheese to the pan and set over moderate heat. Season with 6 to 8 turns of a pepper mill and toss well. Serve the pasta in warmed bowls. Pass additional cheese and pepper separately.